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On Saturday, February 11, 2006, I spent my twelfth night in the kitchens of Jean-Robert at Pigall’s. I arrived around 1:15 and was greeted by Todd, the sous chef, with, “Are you here all night?”. Each time he’s said that to me in the past, I came to find out that the night would be …different… somehow from a ‘normal’ night in the restaurant. This evening was no exception. In celebration of Valentine’s Day, the restaurant was offering a prie fixe menu instead of the normal menu. The prie fixe menu was as follows:       

• PERONA SMOKED SALMON AND KENTUCKY CAVIAR, QUAIL EGG, LEMON DRESSING AND CUCUMBER SALAD
• MAINE LOBSTER SALAD, TROPICAL FRUIT AND AVOCADO, RED MICRO SALAD
• DUCK LIVER RAVIOLI WITH SHIITAKE MUSHSROOMS, ROASTED PEAR AND FONDUE OF PARSNIPS, DUCK LEG CONFIT AND SMOKED BREAST DRIED CHERRY AND CRANBERRY COMPOTE

Guest selecte one from the following entrees:

• SEA BASS, PINOT NOIR BUTTER, LIGHT TRUFFLE SAUCE, FONDUE OF ROOT VEGETABLES, WILTED WATERCRESS, VELVET PIOPINI MUSHROOMS
• RACK OF LAMB, TARAGON SYRAH WINE SAUCE, FINGERLING POTATOES, GOAT CHEESE FLAN, CONFIT TOMATOES, MEDLEY OF MUSHROOM AND CREAMY SPINACH
• BEEF TENDERLOIN, BORDELAISE SAUCE, ROASTED SHALLOT AND ASPARGUS, DAUPHINOIS POTATOES, OYSTER MUSHROOMS, FONDUE OF SNOW PEAS AND GLAZED CARROTS

Followed by assorted confections. 

After greeting everyone, I immeditately got to work peeling, slicing, and cutting beets into batonnettes for the root vegetable fondue for the Sea Bass. Then I julienned some sliced turnips for the party (in addition to a restaurant full of people downstairs, we also had a party of 28 people upstairs). I helped assemble loads of duck liver ravioli. After family meal (roasted chicken, mashed potatoes, and some of the worst macaroni & cheese I’ve ever tasted!), we got back to work when someone noticed that the container for cardboard was smoldering. By the time I went out to look at it, several of the staff were outside dumping water on the 5-foot high flames. Apparently, someone had flicked a cigarette into the bin and it caught fire. I pitched in, relieving the other guys, and finished cleaning up the mess before returning to the kitchen.

Continue reading CULINARY: My twelfth night at Pigall's