1. Preheat the oven to 375. Grease the bottom (but not the sides) of two cake pans.
2. Combine eggs and sugar and warm to about 110 degrees. This may be done in one of two ways: a> stir the egg-sugar mixture over a hot water bath or, b> warn the sugar on a sheet pan in the oven (do not get it too hot) and gradually beat it into the eggs. The reason for this step is that the foam gains greater volume if warmed.
3. With a wire whip or the whip attachment of a mixer, beat the eggs at high speed until they are very light and thick. This may take as long as 10-15 minutes if the quantity is large.
4. If any liquid (water, milk, liquid flavoring) is included, add it now. Either whip it in in a steady stream or stir it in, as indicated in the recipe.
5. Fold in the sifted flour in three or four stages, being careful not to deflate the foam. Many bakers do this by hand, even for large batches. Fold gently until all the flour is blended in. If any other dry ingredients are used, such as cornstarch or baking powder, the should first be sifted with the flour.
6. (If using butter.) Carefully fold in the melted butter after the flour has been added. Fold in the butter completely, but be careful not to overmix or the cake will be tough.
7. Immediately pan and bake the batter. Delays will cause loss of volume.
8. Cook until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, about 20 minutes.
9. Cool 15 minutes in the pan on a wire rack before turning out.
VARIATIONS:* Chocolate Genoise: Substitute 2 ounces cocoa powder for 2 ounces of the flour.
NOTES : From PROFESSIONAL BAKING, third edition, by Wayne Gisslen, page 319.
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